KYAROG SANG-NGAG CHHOKHORLING - Thamichhowa Youth Group

KYAROG SANG-NGAG CHHOKHORLING

In the area of Khumbu region on the outskirt of Nepal and Tibet border, surrounded by the crystal White Mountains at the Bhotekoshi (Tibetan river) valley (Thamichhowa Valley). 3900 meter above from the sea level is a place called Kyarog located at the south of Namche Bazar in the Everest region is an old Buddhist monastery called Kyarog Sang-Ngag Chholing Monastery. It is one of the many monasteries of Khumbu belonging to the Nyingmapa sect. The monastery performs very important meditations and ceremonies for the peace and happiness of the people of that area and the whole world. In short they are meant for the beings to attain liberation from suffering and achieve full enlightenment by training the mind in to the way of enlightenment. Situated on the traditional salt trade route of Nepal and Tibet and one short uphill walk from the trial leading to Renjo-la pass and the Nangpa-la. Believed to be found sometime in the eighteenth or early nineteen century, by the first descendent of the monastery Lama Rolwa Dorjee, until the early nineties the sanctuary was off bound for the tourist and only a few westerners were able to visit it. Even today only few trekkers take the short side walk to the monastery, but those who take the trip didn’t disappoint with the beauty and the sanctuary of the place. The founding of the monastery and lineage of the abbot (Lama) are attributed to the intervention of divine or supernatural beings. How much truth there is in the traditional accounts we will never discover, but there are some great events in history that we cannot explain in accordance with our rational and materialistic mind frame.
History
Sometime in the remote past, through the Nangpa-La pass a Tibetan couple Palzang Dorjee and Palzom Dolma and their daughter Lhamo Dolma came to the Khumbu region for the pilgrimage. They were from the Tsibri in the Lato region of Tibet. The family belongs to the Thimmi clan. They tale a shelter underneath a cave or a boulder near the present Kyarog Monastery. One morning when Lhamo Dolma went to fetch the water from the nearby stream, she saw an eye appealing fruit lying on the ground near the stream and she cannot resist herself from eating the fruit. The finding of the fruit there was really wonderful but more surprisingly the lady became pregnant after eating the fruit. Which Lhamo Dolma and her parents concluded the fruit as manifestation of the divine beings. Sometimes later she gave a birth to a child, and the child named Rangjung Dorje (self-created Vajra).
Since the linage originates as a result of fruit eaten by Lhamo Dolma the family is come to known as the Lhabu Shingtog or fruit son of the gods.
For seven generation the descendant of Rangjung Dorje remained as an ordinary laymen.
In the seventeenth century AD after seven generation the Rangjung Dorje’s descendant Tenzin Dragpa or also known as Rolwa Dorji because of his deadlocked thunderbolt (Vajra) travelled to Kham in Tibet to receive teachings. Later he became a well-known Buddhist priest. During the stay he received the teaching of Red Wrathful Guru Swirl of fire and wind of southern treasure also know as Ratna Lingpa Tradition and he became highly accomplished with many retreats and practice of this particular deity. As sign of the accomplished he was able to twist an iron rod. On the way back he brings the twisted rod along with a statue of Guru Padhmasambhava made from a copper. He built a large house in the place called Thag-phug or Tiger Cave 10 minutes down from the present monastery location. The statue and the twisted rod are accommodate inside the shrine of the house. He led a religious life at the house of Thag-phug.
One day a fire broke out in the place. Because of a fire, the inhabitants were forced to leave. Fortunately the villagers were able to put out the fire but when they returned to assess the damage, the statue was gone. Sometimes after the incident, one day a girl in a search of firewood comes to the jungle of Kyarog hears a sound of ringing bell from the square boulder and when she climbed up the mountains she found the statue that went missing from the house of Rolwa Dorji. Later the villagers come to retrieve the statue, but surprisingly the statue of the Padhmasambhava talked and tells the villagers to build a monastery at the hermitage. after sometime Rolwa Dorje built a monastery there. It is the place where the monastery is located at the present time. The monastery was named Sang-Ngag Choling or secret mantra Dhrama island.
On the tenth of the fifth Lunar month he used to celebrate the offering ritual of the Red Wrathful Guru. After the monastery was built at Kyarog some of the local people requested him to bestow a long life empowerment as part of the offering ritual. Sometimes later, ten families get-together and presented him with the very large butter lamp and the request to include the ritual for dispelling the obstacles and throwing away a Torma to destroy the evil forces. From the day on the ritual is performed every year on the same date. Later the rotating system of eight families to provide fund every year for the ritual in a same way similar to the other famous Sherpa festival Dumji.
In this way Lama Rolwa Dorje became the first abbot of the Kyarog monastery and afterwards the seat was passed from father to son. Became the hereditary Lama known as Ngakpa; a practitioners of tantra who choose to maintain a family life and pass on their teachings through familial lineage.
It was year 1934 in January the monastery suffers some damages from the earthquake during the time it was Lama Lhakpa or Lama Urgyen who undertook the maintenances of the monastery.
In the first month of the female bird year 1957, Lama Tenzing added a second floor to the monastery building to accommodate the set of scriptures known as Rinchen Terdzo and was therefore named as Terzo Lhakhang or the shrine of Terzo. In the year 1986 the government of Nepal donated corrugated iron sheets for the roof of the shrine, with the help and contribution of the local people Lama Tenzing not just only changed the roof also able to add the other essential things for the shrine. At the same year Dephuk Rinpoche performed the consecration on the basis of the Vajra Wrathful Guru (Dorje Dragpa Tsal) of the new terma tradition and gave a long life empowerment.
With the objectives to preserve and promote the monastery by improving its facilities and renovating the monastery first Kyarog monastery management committee was formed under the chairmanship of Kyarog Lama in year 1994.
After the untimely demise of Tshering Jigme Tenzing in year 2000 Lama Nawang Tshultrim became the head of the monastery and had to resume the responsibility of maintaining the lineage of his forefathers and the ritual of the monastery. The young visionary Abbot initiated the changes of the structure of management to a more community owned heritage site by involving local people. The monastery was official registered as a monastery securing the land and title of the monastery and secure the supports from the government and non-government agencies and organizations.
The Lineage of Kyarog Lamas:
1. Tenzing Dragpa / Rolwa Dorje
2. Dragpa Trinley
3. Karma Trinley
4. Chyyokyi Gyaltsen
5. Kagyu Rinzin Gyurme
6. Kagyu Yeshe Dorje / Lama Trinley Tenzing (late 90th – early 20th)
7. Urgyen Sang-ngag Tenzing / Lama Lhakpa (1891-1965)
8. Nawang Sherab / Lama Nawang Tenzing Chodar (1919-1997)
9. Tshering Jigme Tenzing (1956-2000)
10. Nawang Tshultrim (1979- present)
Lama Rolwa Dorje (Tenzing Dragpa) 1st Kyarog Lama:
The eighth generation descendant of Rangjung Dorje Lama Rolwa Dorje was the first one to choose the life of the saint and the founder of the Kyarog monastery. In eighteenth century he went to various monasteries throughout the Tibet. He returned to Khumbu with the statue of Guru Padhmasambhava and led a religious life at a place called Thag-phug (Tiger cave) at his home. The highly accomplished saint was able to twist an iron rod with his bare hands. With the auspicious sign of the Guru Sungjongma he established a chapel at Kyarog to accommodate the statue. Started the festival of great offering (Tsogchen).
Lama Trinley Tenzing (Kagyu Yeshe Dorje) 6th Kyarog Lama:
Popularly known as Lama Tsering Trinley Tenzing lived in the last part of the nineteenth century and early twentieth century. He received the empowerment and the commentary of his family’s main deity The Red Wrathful Guru from his father Kagyu Rinzen Gyurme. He spent considerable time mediating at Palkyui Keutsang hermitage a craven hermitage above Kyarog Monastery. He received various teachings of northern treasure from Lama Kagyu Kunzang Dorje and Mindroling tradition from Lama Kagyu Chyoki Lordo of Phortse. He passed away in his hermitage and remained a few days in the mediation of the clean light of death.
Lama Urgyen Tenzin (Lama Lhakpa) 7th Kyarog Lama:

Commonly known as Lama Lhakpa in the local community, Lama Urgyen Tenzin was youngest of Trinley Tenzing’s three sons. Under the tutelage of his father Lama Urgen Tenzin learn and memorize the Dharma text and later received oral transmission of the Red Wrathful Guru and other various teachings of the northern treasure. Like his father he also meditate at the Palkyui keutsang hermitage to perform all the teachings related to the empowerment he got from his father and other teachers. Including that he perform practice of meditation by eating only some pills made from flowers and other ingredients. He gave many teachings and empowerments to the local people and became renowned as a great practitioner. At the time of his passing he remained in the meditation of the clean light of death for one week.
Lama Nawang Sherab (Lama Nawang Tenzing Chodar) 8th Kyarog Lama:

Acknowledged as the tulku of the Phortse lama Kyilo at the very childhood Lama Tenzing learned to read with his father and later received religious trainings from his father Lama Lhakpa. In the year 1938 he meet Dephug Rinpoche commonly known as Deu Rinpoche from whom he learnt different types of Tibetan and Sanskrit writing styles, astrology and herbal medicine. The same year he traveled to Dza Rongbu with his father and received empowerments and teachings from Dzatul Rinpoche. Inspired from Dzatul Rinpoche Lama Tenzing wanted to pursue a life of ordinary monk and requested to the Rinpoche. But he was refused saying that he had to continue his family lineage at the Kyarog monastery and reminded him about the responsibilities that he got back in Khumbu. He returns to Khumbu. But in 1939 he received further teachings from Dzatul Rinpoche and after three years in year 1942 he received the Red Wrathful Guru cycle from his father and received teachings under many other lamas.
Under the leadership of Lama Tenzing and with the help of local people many other noticeable changes are happened at the monastery a rooftop was changed with the iron sheets donated by the government of Nepal and a floor was added to the original monastery.
Invited Dephug Rinpoche to perform the consecration based on the basis of the Vajra Wrathful Guru of the new terma tradition and gave a long life empowerment for the benefits of the local people and the world.
In year 1997 Lama Tenzing he passed away. Many auspicious signs were appeared during his funeral. A Kudung Tomb was built to house the remains of Lama Tenzing and still today we can witness the Kudung of Lama Tenzing at the monastery.
Lama Tshering Jigme Tenzing 9th Kyarog Lama:
Lama Tenzing was succeeded by his son Lama Tshering Jigme Tenzing, he received basic Buddhist teachings and trainings in making Torma, a ritual music and ritual dance from his father. Whereas he received empowerment from his grandfather and other high Lamas. He was the first in the lineage to attend the modern school through primary level. Unfortunately he passed away at the young age of forty-four.
Lama Nawang Tshultrim 10th Kyarog Lama:

After the untimely death of Lama Tshering Jigme Tenzing, Lama Nawang Tshulrim become the abbot of the monastery at young age of 21. He received his teachings and rituals from his grandfather and father. He received many instructions and teachings from high lamas. The visionary and dedicated young lama initiated a various changes of the monastery. The most significant improvements have taken place under the current abbot Lama Nawang Tsultrim’s leadership. Following the path of his grandfather Lama Tenzing in the year 2020 Lama Nawang Tshultrim invites Dephuk Rinpoche to give a teaching of the meditation practice and the Dharma to the local people. He is continuing the various practices and the religious life and lineage that his forefathers had led centuries ago.
The Rituals:
- Tsogchen (The great offering):




Celebrated in the middle of the summer monsoon. The purpose of the festival is making offering ritual to the Red Wrathful Guru to dispel obstacles and destroy evil forces thereby bringing peace and harmony in the world. Initiated by Lama Rolwa Dorje the festival was firstly performed as only a ritual by Lama Rolwa Dorje after returning to Khumbu at his house of Thag-phug. But later with the request of the local people the offering was performed as festival with the involvement of society. Later with the funding from the group of eight household the ritual is performed and the rotation system was made for the sponsorship. Now the rotation is made up of the four household each year.
On the fifteenth of the Lunar fourth month, where the sponsors with the Kyarog lama performs an elaborate incense offering with the accordance of the northern treasure Ratna Lingpa’s Pema Lhapsang and the further planning for the ritual is done on this day. On the seventh day of the fifth month there is another extensive incense offering to the local protectors and it is the starting of the ritual performance. The sponsors (Lawa) and other villagers set up poles at the shrine of the local protector. The eighth is the day of the main ritual. On this day the lama and the monks performs the main ritual with the elaboration of some mask dances and offering of the Tormas and ritual dance. On the ninth is a continuity of the ritual and the new sponsors for the next year is assigned. The celebration conclude with the people dancing in the courtyard until the morning. The tenth is a day of bestow of an empowerment by the lamas to the sponsors and the ritual concludes.
- Nyungne:
From the second to the sixth day of the sixth Tibetan months the Lama along with the villagers and monks assemble at the monastery for the two set of fasting and silence practice known as Nyungne. The laymen or villagers are guided by the Lamas. Participants observe the fasting, silence and repeat prayers during this retreat. As in the case of Tsogchen the Nyungne is sponsored by individual families.
- Yarngo/ Tse-chu:
It is a ceremony takes place every month on the 10th day of the Lunar Calendar. It celebrates the magical powers of Guru Padhmasambhava appears on the day of the Yarngu or Tse-chu to bless his followers.
- Community Services:
The abbot of the Kyarog Monastery performs religious ceremonies and rituals for the village households regularly at the request. This includes Tsewang, Kangso and serkyim, birth and death rituals. The rituals can be performed both the monastery and the village household. The rituals are believed to be important for the spiritual wellbeing of the people.
Around the Monastery:
- Palkyui Keutsang Hermitage:
Located on the south facing cliff neat stream and waterfall this outstanding and magnificent was established at the time of 6th Kyarog lama Kagyu Dorje. Later the hermitage becomes a place where many Kyarog Lama meditated and studied. The hermitage is located about 1km from the monastery and the access to it is very difficult. Due to that the visitors are not encouraged to go there. However we can see the site on the way to monastery.
- Kyobra Cliff:
On the circumambulation way of the monastery, immediately behind the Monastery is the Kyobra Cliff. The place where the ancestors of Kyarog lama sought shelter and later the statue of the Guru Padhmasambhava landed.
- Shrine of the Protector Deity:
Along the Kyobra cliff is a red shrine covered with the silk scarf Khada and the poles on the top. It is the shrine of the protector deity of the monastery. The shrine is situated under the massive cliff attached to the Kyobra cliff. The visitors are not allowed to make a noise, take photographs at the zone.
- Khandro Chhuwa (Sacred Stream):
On the north of the monastery is a stream known as Khandro Chhuwa. It is the very stream where Lahmo Dolma found the fruit. The stream was named as Khndro Chhuwa meaning the stream of the Dakini and the stream is the main source of the water to the monastery and other villages below.
Getting To Kyarog Monastery:
On the way to the Nang-pa la pass and Renjo La pass (one among the famous three pass trek in Everest region), access to this little visited sanctuary is steeply uphill next to signboard branching to the left. Passing through an old square chorten on the ridge the path enters the large groove of the Junipers, Birch and Rhododendron trees. The upper part of the Jungle has been fenced by the present Lama to keep away cattle and the wood cutters. Apart from the Monastery and the residence of Lama the premises includes the house belonging to the other laymen. On the circumambulation way of the monastery is the Kyobra cliff, the local protector deity’s shrine and the Khandro Chhuwa or Dakini Stream. At the upper part of the stream is the way leading to the Sumdur Peak (5,337mtr.).
The entrance gate of the monastery provides an access to the small courtyard surrounded by the buildings, at center is flattering white vertical prayer falg (Darjog). The courtyard is used for celebrations of ritual and festival like Tsogchen and Nyungne. This is helping to refocus and reawaken the old traditions and festivals of the Sherpa culture. On the right of the courtyard is the building for kitchen and dining area of the monastery. On the left is the community building and Prayer Wheel shrine “Mani Thungyur”. The shrine houses a huge prayer wheel filled with the one hundred millions of the mantra Om mani padme hum.
Decorated with the lotus petals and various offerings the mantra on the wheel is written on the Lentsa (Ranjana) scripture.
In front of the courtyard is the main chapel carrying history within itself. Standing as a place of faith and heritage site. The Either side of the monastery door wall is the paintings of the four great heavenly kings protecting the dharma and on the left is the graphic wheel of life illustration and four harmonious friends standing on Elephant. On the right is the painting of the Sangdong Pari.
Entering assembly hall (Dukhang) of the monastery the visitors get attached with the sanctity of the place with its peaceful surrounding, refreshing scent of the burning herbal incense. Inside its main hall is the chamber housing the statue of deities. Huge clay statue of Guru Padhmasambhava takes the center stage and on either side of him is other two deities. On the left is old clay statue of Red Wrathful Guru, with the five skulls with the fearsome color of red. The right is a fierce snow lion faced Dakini Sengdongma. Under the chamber is a glass cabinet where the ritual accessories were kept. The ceiling of the hall looks magnificent with the mandala of four armed Cherenzig, and hanging victory banners. The walls are painted and covered with the painting of Buddha and the most part is filled with the sacred Buddhist scriptures. Like most of the assembly halls there are thrones of the Lamas and seats for the monks along with the offering table, furnished with the ritual objects such as musical instruments. The poles of the hall are adorned with the standards and canopies are placed on the throne of the Lamas. The mural paintings depicting the Tibetan religion and culture, found inside are worth appreciating.
If the abbot permits you to visit upstairs, you will find a hall housing prayer books and, in particular, a mask of the protector deities and the Kudung of previous Lama Tenzing.
The historic and ancient site is one of the center of beginning of the Buddhism in the region and is an important monastery if you are interested in the history of religion and the sherpa lifestyle. Part of the culture of Sherpa, this oldest of monasteries in the cradle of civilization is a must-see site for anyone visiting Everest region.
Glimpses of Kyarog monastery



Article prepared by : Dawa Jangbu Sherpa, Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Munucipality-05, Changekpa

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